Day 12: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia

#throwback September 16, 2026

Forty-five minutes with eyes wide open and a pounding heart

“Are you never scared?” a follower asks me. A question I get often. Yes, I am scared sometimes, but not often, and it’s just part of the deal. When I’m alone in nature, I’m actually rarely afraid; it’s among people that I occasionally am. People are simply more dangerous than animals.

At 2:00 AM, I wake up with a start. Not far from my tent, I hear talking. It must be at least four or five people. I’m on the edge of the city at a picnic spot where you’re allowed to stay overnight, and yes, anyone can come here, but what are they doing here at this time on a weekday?

My heart is pounding in my throat as I try to assess if I’m in danger. But what can I do? They’ve sat down at one of the tables and are talking and laughing. It sounds friendly. I hear them opening cans, but they don’t seem drunk. For forty-five minutes (that’s a long time!), I lie there with a pounding heart and eyes wide open, crossing my fingers that they don’t mean any harm, constantly wondering: Why didn’t I walk to the official campsite? Why was I too lazy to walk that extra hour? Eventually, the group gets up and leaves; they’re good folk…

Searching for a bus station in ruins

After this broken night, I head for the bus station—at least, that’s the plan. However, it turns out to be half in ruins. I try to find out where I actually need to be. It’s a struggle; nobody speaks English and they don’t really know the answer themselves. Until I see a few people with suitcases standing at a roundabout near a huge, gaudy statue (monument of Knez Lazar). It turns out to be the improvised bus stop. There isn’t a sign anywhere; you just have to know.

I take the bus to Niš, Serbia’s second city with a rich history. The journey takes over an hour, and I’m glad to be sitting in the cool air, as it has already become quite hot. Along the way, the bus stops twice, and suddenly there’s a massive scramble to get outside. I don’t get it, because the bus only stops for barely 5 minutes, but the smokers’ need for nicotine seems so great that a few puffs apparently provide relief. In this country, smoking is still very much a thing.

Mediterranean vibes and orgasmic cake

Arriving in Niš is a surprise. The city has a totally different atmosphere. The large bus station, which is in perfect condition, is right next to the indoor market, and it’s so nice to walk through it past the vegetables, spices, and eggs. I head out again quickly, though; it’s hard to maneuver my cart with so many people around.

The city of Niš has a rich history and is located on the Nišava river. An old fortress, fountains, and stately statues are, of course, all there. On a terrace, I treat myself to cake from an award-winning pastry chef and indeed, it’s for good reason—it’s orgasmic.

The Niš Cathedral is impressive. Everywhere you look, there are paintings; on the walls, on the ceiling, in the window frames, everywhere. The colors are vivid, and they are narrative scenes. Once again, I’m the only tourist here. The church is mainly visited by local believers, and there are many of them, judging by the burning candles.

Despite the heat, I decide to keep walking on the Sultans Trail to the next town; it’s ‘only’ 13 km and there are no elevation changes. The start of the route is beautiful, miles along the river. I’d love to take a dip, but the current is strong, which is too dangerous. I do wet my hat every now and then to keep my head cool. Still, I start to regret it a bit; it’s terribly hot, and after the path leads away from the river, the stage becomes ugly, passing through busy and dirty suburbs of Niš. It takes me much longer than expected, and it’s a real struggle in this heat of well over 30 degrees. There’s hardly any shade.

A tower of 952 skulls

On my route is the peculiar Skull Tower, a tower designed entirely from human skulls, erected during the First Serbian Uprising in 1809 as a warning to anyone who would rebel against the Ottomans. Today, 59 of the original 952 skulls remain, which were built into 14 rows on all four sides—a bizarre structure.

My booked studio (at €19/night) turns out to have four beds, which gives me some choice stress—which bed should I take? I don’t have to choose the shower; there’s only one, and it’s excellent and more than welcome after such a hot day of highs and lows. It’s all part of the experience. Such memorable moments again on this Sultans Trail.