Day 7: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia

#flashback September 11, 2025

Rest

A rest day today!

I booked a room for two days in the town of Smederevo, famous for its massive medieval fortress and the beautiful Serbian Orthodox church. My room, at 20 euros per night, comes with many conveniences, including a television and air conditioning. I don’t use either of them, though; I don’t understand how the remote works and have no desire to figure it out, and cold air is no longer necessary. The temperature has since dropped to 23 degrees.

I sleep in wonderfully late and treat myself to coffee and breakfast in bed. There is no kettle, so I’m very happy with my gas burner, as it still provides for my most basic need… COFFEE! It’s raining outside; I’m enjoying this morning indoors.

Impressive Smederevo

When it dries up around half past twelve, I walk into town to the fortress and visit the church, which is very impressive. Many believers walk in and out, constantly crossing themselves and often lighting a candle. I sense an intense devotion.

Then I go looking for a restaurant; today I want to treat myself culinarily, and I succeed quite well. I have an excellent meal and recharge my energy. After lunch, I walk around for a bit, but I’m actually just longing for my little apartment. The city is quite noisy and busy. Besides, there’s a fair and a market; I’m happy to skip it all and go cocooning in my room.

Figuring out a new route

A short afternoon nap does me good. After that, I write a bit and study the route to follow for the coming week. I won’t be able to walk the entire route from Belgrade to Sofia anyway, so I want to see which less interesting stages I can skip. It’s quite a puzzle; there isn’t convenient public transport everywhere along the route, and it’s also hard to judge what’s best to do. In the meantime, I’ve been in touch with a Dutch team member of the Sultans Trail, who is helping me out a lot and giving great tips. Hats off!

I have nothing more to report, other than that I’m also thoroughly enjoying a day like this. I never get bored anyway, and I’m very good at idling and dawdling without any guilt. More people should do that!