Packed like sardines at the Wassenaar campsite and how my tent became my home again

After the grueling trek through the loose sand, I pitch my tent at Camping Duinhorst in Wassenaar. Everything is right here: neat fields, spotless sanitary buildings, friendly people at the reception. Really, that’s not the problem. But this… this just isn’t my way of being.

I notice it immediately. My body doesn’t relax. It’s looking for space, silence, the rustle of leaves, the chirping of birds. Wild camping is in my system now. And when that’s not possible, I look for nature campsites, places that come close to that feeling. Here, that’s impossible.

Caravans and campers are packed like sardines, there’s hardly any privacy. It feels like a beehive, even now in the spring. I hate to think what this is like in the summer, a carnival of crowds and noise. And then the road next to it, the N14, constantly present in the background.

As if that weren’t enough, I also pitch my tent right next to a lamppost. At nature campsites, such a thing doesn’t even exist, so I simply hadn’t thought about it. Luckily, I find my sleep mask in my sleeping bag.

After a simple one-pot dinner and a warm shower, I crawl into my tent early. My legs are heavy and my back is protesting after a winter in which I’ve hardly walked. I fall asleep quickly.

And then, somewhere between night and morning, it happens. It’s back. That feeling. My tent is no longer a tent, but my home. I sleep until half past eight, something that’s unthinkable at home.

When I lift my sleep mask, I see to my surprise that the sun is shining.

Lying in my sleeping bag, I make coffee. No rush, no plan. Just that moment. The silence in my head. The sun on my face. The birds singing. The wind is blowing in such a way that the road can’t be heard. Suddenly it feels right again. Here, like this, in my own way, this is why I walk. I stay lying there for hours. Because I can.

Later, I walk through the dunes and the beach towards Scheveningen. Force 5 headwind, but it feels good: the wind in my hair, the sand under my feet, the wide beach ahead of me. In the distance, I can already see the pier, with the Ferris wheel getting closer, and at The Fat Mermaid, I wait for my boyfriend, a meeting I’m really looking forward to.

Diesel on the highway: coffee stains and the crossing into Bulgaria

#flashback: September 22, 2025

After two nights of fantastic sleep in my green room in Dimitrovgrad, I set off again in good spirits. At least… that’s what I think. My body just doesn’t want to cooperate and the hills feel like Mont Blanc. It’s amazing how the body works sometimes. Fortunately, it passes after a few hours and I’m walking great again; the more miles I cover, the better it feels. I’m a real diesel—I always need time to get going—but in the end, I still cover over 31 km.

Pretty soon I reach the Serbian/Bulgarian border. There is no special border crossing for pedestrians, so you have to walk along the highway past the booths where the cars stop. Before crossing the border into Bulgaria, I grab a quick coffee, which I promptly spill all over myself. Besides the heat, I’m annoyed because I had just washed everything and I plan to camp for the next few days. As best as I can, I rinse the coffee out of my pants at the restrooms.

After the border, the road goes up and up and yes, even steeper up, and for the first time in 18 days, I run into someone! Two cyclists on their way to Sofia. We chat for a bit and they continue with their bikes in hand while I push my cart. The path is too steep to cycle. I pass them with rapid strides. That’s when you see who the experienced hiker is. It takes hours before they overtake me again.

The landscape is green and varied, and I’m enjoying the views. It’s another hot day, but the breeze is somewhat cool and there’s regular shade, so it’s manageable. When I arrive in the village of Dragoman, I’m slightly surprised. It looks tidy here, with straight sidewalks and far fewer dilapidated houses and trash on the streets.

After this, the landscape changes from green to brown. I walk through rolling fields where sunflowers, wheat, and corn stood not long ago and where the grass was still green. Still, it’s beautiful; it perfectly signals the end of summer and the preparation for autumn and winter.

It’s not easy, but eventually, I find a flat spot to camp. The pegs are hard to get into the ground, but with a stone, I manage bit by bit; my tent is solid as a rock.