Day 3: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia
#throwback September 8, 2025
After a wonderful night’s sleep, I slowly wake up over a few cups of coffee at my hostel’s kitchen table. I feel a lot better.
The metro whisks me away to the bus station, where the bus that will take me to Belgrade soon pulls up. When the grumpy bus driver sees my Wheelie hiking trailer, he mutters crossly, “That trailer isn’t allowed.” I tell him as cheerfully as possible—since annoying him further isn’t a good idea—that I have a magic trick. I skillfully remove the handles and wheels from the trailer, leaving just the body, which is the size of a suitcase. He gives a short nod: “Alright then.” First hurdle cleared!
Seat 20a is mine, which means I’m right at the back of the bus—the spot that used to be for the cool kids during school trips. I’ve finally claimed it for myself. In front of me sits an English tour guide explaining to her followers what they can expect. She has a terribly corny sense of humor, but the ladies find it hilarious; they’re laughing excessively loud. It’s hurting my ears.
It takes us over 1.5 hours to cross the border from Hungary to Serbia. First, we wait on the bus for our turn. Then everyone gets off the bus and lines up at the Hungarian customs window. Then everyone back on the bus. We drive the bus 50 meters forward, where we wait for the next barrier. When it’s our turn, everyone off the bus again and now into the queue for the Serbian window. Only one window is open, and with the less-than-diligent customs officer, it takes forever. Then everyone back on the bus and off we go. Hurdle number 2 overcome, and I have the first stamp in my brand-new passport!
On the bus, I try to get my SIM card with coverage in Serbia working. All Balkan countries are included in my phone plan, but Serbia isn’t. I can’t get it to work, even though it should be very simple according to the instructions. I decide to stay in a hostel in Belgrade; this needs to be sorted out properly, and I’m not sure if I’ll manage it quickly on a Sunday. I’ll just set off a bit later. Eventually, I get it working with an e-SIM. Another hurdle—or rather, a mountain pass—overcome. A huge relief.
Belgrade is a contrast to Budapest. It’s dirty there and the people are curt. This day will go down in history as a bumpy one…
