Day 13: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia

#throwback September 17, 2026

A lump in my throat at the cemetery

After a good night in bed number 1, I get up on time and head out feeling fresh. At the cemetery just outside the village, I witness a heartbreaking scene. A couple is working at a fresh grave, hanging a football jersey, framed behind glass, on the headstone. On the tomb is a photo of their teenage son. The woman has to be supported by her husband. I get a lump in my throat and tears in my eyes, thinking of my two incredibly dear friends who both passed away unexpectedly in less than five months. RIP M. (59) and RIP P. (60)

The Sićevo Gorge: beautiful but untamed

Today’s route, through and along the Sićevo Gorge, is truly beautiful. It’s a tough route, but the enjoyment wins by a landslide. The Sultans Trail is being heavily promoted in the Netherlands, but it’s still an unknown and new route, and unfortunately, you can tell. Some sections are difficult to navigate, and I wonder how often anyone even walks here. I heard from a local resident that Serbians aren’t much into hiking. I’m a little worried; I hope I don’t get stuck again and have to walk all the way back.

Sometimes I pass through tiny hamlets, and in the craziest places, you’ll suddenly find something that passes for a little shop. I’m as happy as a child when I score a decent banana; the other two were brown. Fruit always does me good.

My own 5-star restaurant

My plan was to eat in the village of Sićevo at the only restaurant on the map, but it has since closed. So, I buy eggs, tomatoes, cucumber, and more at the supermarket and prepare my meal at a picnic table overlooking the gorge. I’m just turning it into my own 5-star restaurant!

A test lie-down at twilight

I want to camp today—a good goal, but difficult to pull off, unfortunately. I really underestimated that. There truly isn’t a flat spot to be found anywhere, even though I started looking well ahead of time. It’s getting later and later, and twilight is already setting in. Eventually, I think I’ve found a nice spot. Before I pitch my tent, I do a quick test lie-down, and it seems okay. Time for some well-deserved rest!