Sydkust

After saying goodbye to Joëlle, Mark, and the dog Fee, I set off again. Although the route along the south coast continues from east to west, a new path begins from Ystad: the Sydkust, one of the seven Skåneleden. I have nearly completed the Österlen in five days.

Wheelchair accessible route

The route is disappointing. I walk long stretches along a busy road on a bike path. What is nice is that this route is also wheelchair accessible. Unfortunately, the wheelchair route mostly runs along this bike path, always next to that busy road. As a hiker, I at least have an occasional side path, a piece of forest, or dune.

Danish island

Upon arriving at Ystad, I see that there is a ferry to the island of Bornholm. I have never heard of it. It is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea. I hesitate for a moment. Should I take the ferry and do a circular walk of about a week there before heading south? I’ve read beautiful reviews, but also that it has tough sections and that shoes with good traction are advised. My shoes are now completely worn out, and one shoe even has a hole in it. So that’s not an option. I don’t want to take any risks. Here at the coast, I walk safely since the terrain is not challenging.

Hundreds of colorful beach huts

Too bad. These are exactly the fun, unexpected things I can encounter while hiking and would like to explore. But safety first. I keep walking and pass by the hundreds of colorful beach houses in Ystad. By the end of the nineteenth century, Ystad became a popular seaside resort and spa. Recreational swimming, however, was not exactly a leisure activity without rules at that time. Bathers discreetly changed in fabric changing tents, and swimming together was frowned upon. In fact, in 1926, a man could still be fined for swimming in ‘offensive proximity’ to his own wife. Well. That’s something that’s hard to explain at the beach nowadays. In the 1920s, fabric changing tents were replaced by wooden beach houses. Now, nearly four hundred remain, all in cheerful colors. After a cold dip, you instantly knew where your own house was.

Decision by the campfire

After the disappointing route, in rather bleak weather but thankfully without the predicted rain peak, I find a beautiful camping spot right by the sea. There are several campers and shelter sleepers, and campfires are burning. I enjoy my spot, the view, and the gentle lapping of the sea. But I also make a decision. The weather seems to be deteriorating, the route is disappointing, and my shoes are worn out. It’s time to head to warmer places via the Netherlands. In the Netherlands, among other things, new shoes are waiting for me.

Taking the ferry to Rostock

From Trelleborg, still three days of walking, I book the ferry to Rostock in Germany. From there, I will continue my journey by bus to Amsterdam. I would have liked to stay here for a few more weeks. But sometimes continuing is not the most logical choice. This time, it’s time to relocate.

Overnight stay: Mossbystrand