Expensive shower

My little tent is indeed pitched a bit awkwardly at the campsite, over two spots. But it doesn’t matter, it’s not busy anyway and last night I couldn’t see a hand in front of my face in the pitch black.

It’s a pity that I couldn’t find a wild camping spot, but the shower was really nice. Although I don’t think it’s worth the €27… But oh well, it is what it is. And now I have the opportunity to revisit Sweden’s Stonehenge, this time in daylight.

The Swedish Stonehenge ‘Ales stenar’

‘Ales stenar’ turns out to be the largest and best-preserved ship setting in Sweden. 59 enormous stones, together about 70 meters long, atop the Kåseberga ridge overlooking the sea. Why and by whom it was built remains a mystery. I walk around for a while and marvel at how immense the structure is. Seventy meters is really long. And on top of the cliff, with all the space around it, it truly stands out.

Walking along the cliffs

The following route is incredibly beautiful. Expansive views, lovely climbs, and a completely different type of coastline than the white beaches from yesterday. Truly magnificent. Once I have descended to sea level, it follows a dull stretch along a long bike path through flat farmland. And then suddenly, the weather turns completely.

Suddenly, it’s a storm

It rains so suddenly and so hard that a car even stops in front of me to ask if I want a ride. As much as I appreciate it, the man is heading the other way, which doesn’t help me at all. Fortunately, it doesn’t last long. After half an hour, it stops, but in the meantime, I am quite cold. Luckily, the sun quickly reappears.

Niklas, the Swedish cyclist

In the vicinity of Ystad, I am approached by the Swedish cyclist Niklas, who has never seen a cart like Wheelie. We have a long and animated conversation. He too decided to quit his job early. He claimed to have the best job in the world at Volvo and started every day with a smile on his face. However, the nightmare of growing old and stiff without having enjoyed his bike travels made him decide to say goodbye to his job, even though his employer did everything possible to keep him, but he was not to be persuaded.

Wild camping tip

I give him my card, and he says that I am always welcome at his home in Olofström, where I walked a week ago and also got caught in a brief, heavy downpour. He also advises me to camp in a piece of forest near Ystad. I thought I could find something after Ystad, but I follow his advice. Since I don’t have to go far anymore, I take it easy and take another long break.

Camping prohibited

But when I arrive at the forest, there are clear signs everywhere stating that wild camping is not allowed. And although the chance of being seen is slim, I decide not to do it anyway. That doesn’t feel right. Society here is based on trust, and I do not want to undermine that. The consequence is that I end up back at a campsite, as continuing on is no longer an option, and I am not in the mood for another night adventure.

Back at the campsite

The reception is already closed, but the sign says that check-in can also be done online. Usually, you get a code sent by email to open the door to the toilet building. However, I receive nothing. I ask another guest about it. He tells me that the doors open with a key card obtained at the reception, but I can use their card.

Beer by the tent

When he asks where I’m from, I say, “Well, we might as well speak Dutch!” What follows is a lovely evening with Joëlle and Mark and their cutest dog Fee. They just arrived today and are going to tour Sweden for four weeks with their camper. Mark offers me a beer, which I gladly accept. It tastes divine. I just didn’t expect the alcohol to hit me so hard… Phew. I’m just not used to it anymore. So I take my time drinking it. At least I enjoy it for a long while and then sleep wonderfully in my little tent next to their camper. This way, we can all share the key card for the toilet and shower, because if you drink beer, the bathroom is near, my neighbor always said.

Overnight stay: Nybrostrand