May 22, 2024

In the forest, where I pitched my tent in near darkness last night, I wake up to the sound of loud cracking branches. Is someone walking out there? I peek through my tent, but I don’t see a person—it’s a deer! I watch it for a while as it moves quietly through the underbrush, then it disappears into the dense forest. I open my tent and lie ready with my camera, hoping it’ll come back so I can catch it on film. And yes—it returns! A bit farther off this time, but I’ve got the proof!

I break my record for latest start—I don’t begin walking until 1 p.m. But the walking is smooth as can be. Sometimes you hit that rhythm where your legs just move on their own. I think it’s similar to a runner’s high. Pure luxury.

The route is lovely, winding through gently rolling farmland with relatively many houses, alternating with patches of pine and deciduous forest. I enjoy the scent of the pines, the flowers, and the breeze in my hair. Along the way, I make friends with a cat that walks with me for a bit and cuddles up when I sit down. It’s these small moments that make the journey feel so grand.

In the distance, I spot a church wrapped in blue construction fabric. The door is open, and I step inside to enjoy the coolness and the simple, colorful interior. Though I’m not religious, I always enjoy entering churches. The silence, the cool air, the calm—something about it moves me. I often find myself thinking of someone who might need a moment of peace like this.

I sleep tucked away in a meadow with tall grass. They’ll probably mow it soon. I haven’t had a hot meal yet today, and I’m quite hungry. Fish on the menu—bought frozen earlier, which helps it keep longer on the road. I feast, and as I eat, I decide to book a hostel for tomorrow when I see a deal in Huskvarna (yes, like the Husqvarna brand). I’ve done a lot of hand-washing, but it’s really time for a proper laundry session. After three weeks, my sheets don’t exactly smell fresh anymore.