Like a baby’s skin

With my tent, I am directly by the water. An idyllic spot that is unparalleled. The water is a little brown, yet also crystal clear. I see the fish swimming and a duck with a beautiful blue head keeps me company for hours right in front of my tent. The brown color is due to a high content of natural humus (dissolved organic matter). This occurs when rainwater flows through peat areas, forests, and decaying leaf litter. The humus particles absorb light and color the water yellow to dark brown. This, by the way, is perfectly healthy and safe. After swimming a few times, my skin feels as soft as a baby’s.

Solar panels unusable

But I am worried. My solar panels are no longer charging. After contacting the supplier, it is clear what is going on. It sounds strange, but if you leave the power bank, which is attached to the panels, out in the full sun, it can overheat. Then it shuts itself off to prevent damage. The only way to reset it is to charge it for eight hours at a wall socket.

Looking for a wall socket

And that is a problem. I can sometimes find a wall socket for an hour or two along the way at a church or something similar, but eight hours? In the middle of nowhere, that’s another story. Luckily, I still have a backup power bank, so I have some leeway, but eventually, that will also run out. Without power, I cannot navigate and I definitely cannot rely on my sense of direction. I simply do not have that.

Alternative route

Fortunately, I’m approaching Oslo. There will surely be enough opportunities to find an affordable place to stay. But as often during this trip, the solution presents itself on its own. At the enormous Frogner Kirke, in the tiny village of Frognerlia, I see a sign for an alternative route of the Tunsbergleden. This turns out to be the old pilgrimage path towards Asker, one of the largest municipalities in Norway (101,000 inhabitants), about twenty kilometers southwest of Oslo. I immediately check if a budget room is available, and indeed: for €61 per night.

Farewell Oslo

Actually, this is exactly what I want. I visited Oslo in depth two years ago, plus I can calmly figure out how I will continue my journey and solve my power problem from Asker. It had to be this way again.

Tiring path

The way there is, however, exhausting. I was down by the fjord, now I have to go all the way back up. Rising two hundred thirty meters. For kilometers. Slopes of six, eight, and even fourteen percent, without a single flat section. My calves scream, they burn, and are almost cramping. Ouch, ouch… puff, puff.

Open-air museum with refugees

Halfway, I’m unexpectedly rewarded. An open-air museum, normally only open on Sundays, is accessible today because of a visit from a group of newcomers. A volunteer says that I can certainly come take a look. “We are open today for the flyktninger,” he says hesitantly. “Refugees,” I reply in Dutch, “that’s how we say it too.” I tell him that I have worked with this group for almost ten years. “How do you say that in English?” he asks. “Refugees.” “Oh yes… ferugees,” he says with a smile. I just leave it at that. I find it amusing. After a delicious glass of berry lemonade and a stroll through the museum, I continue my climb. Hopefully.

Potatoes, vegetables, and meat

Further along, I interrupt the arduous journey once again for a hearty meal. Fried potatoes with vegetables and meat. I really need this extra energy. Fortunately, the last part of the route gradually descends, mostly in the shade, as the thermometer now reads thirty degrees. I zoom down the mountain with Wheelie and arrive at my apartment around half past seven. A beautiful spacious room and a delightful cooling shower.

On to the next adventure. I am curious about what it will be.

Overnight stay: Asker