The war seems to have broken out

Just behind my tent lies a steep hill along which the train tracks run. In the middle of the night, a long freight train thunders by. For a moment, I think that war has broken out, but thankfully, it’s not that bad. What a racket, I didn’t expect that. The road is busy too, but I wake up feeling refreshed anyway. As a tent sleeper, you get used to waking up regularly. At least, I do.

A calf biter with a heavy hiking cart

My cart is heavy today. Sometimes you’re unlucky and have to carry a lot of extra kilos. I had just bought new coffee, muesli, cooking oil, and lighter fluid, plus two liters of water because it’s sunny and warm. That’s quickly five kilos extra. And the day starts right away with a nice calf biter. Embrace the suck, they say in hiker language.

The ideal lunch spot with the driver of the Viking bus

But what a joy it is. The lovely weather, the views, and all the greenery. Just as I’m in the mood for a break, I see the ideal spot: a table in the shade. The gods are favorable to me again. There I meet Carolien or Karolien, maybe Caroline, I’m not sure. I didn’t ask how to spell it and I always want to get names right. Over thirty years ago, she moved from the Netherlands to Denmark for love. Nowadays, she drives the Viking bus, mainly for student transport. A ride was canceled, and so she spends her time in the shade.

The Danish life with gingerbread

I want to make coffee, but it turns out not to be necessary. She has a thermos full of coffee with her and delicious homemade gingerbread. I hit the jackpot. For three-quarters of an hour, we talk about life in Denmark and the impossible Danish pronunciation. She gives me some tips, but it doesn’t make it any easier.

Sleeping in Carolien’s shelter

A few years ago, Carolien helped build shelters. Coincidentally, I am heading to one of those places. How wonderful is it to sleep there? It’s still an hour and a half walk, but I will arrive at the most beautiful spot so far just before sunset. A kilometer further than the shelter I had actually chosen, which turns out to be very crowded. I’ll get some water there.

As a reward, I am greeted with a view over the water, a beautifully colored evening sky, and a nearly full moon. Wow.

Overnight stay: Trelde Næs