Day 10: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia

#reflection September 14, 2025

A record start among the roosters

Today I break my personal record for getting up early. Yes, I can do it! By a quarter to seven, all my gear is already in my cart. If the heat doesn’t defeat me, I’ll conquer it.

There’s not a soul in sight yet, only a few roosters that are as awake as I am and they are happily crowing. I’m not, although I do feel good again, but it’s still early. Just like during the entire night, it’s blowing hard. That feels nice and refreshes me a bit, even though it’s already 21°.

The Serbian mentality: different…

The route enchants me. Actually, for the first time an attractive path with beautiful views, clean (!) villages, and friendly-looking people along the way. I’m really getting used to the Serbian mentality. Yesterday at the camping spot it was a completely different story, but people are generally grumpy; they hardly greet anyone – not even the cashier at the supermarket – and a smile is rarely seen, not even when you give a tip. It’s a different way of doing things. Not worse or better, just different.

Animals on my way to Cuprija

It’s quite amusing when I walk through the villages with the piglets several times. They roam freely in the streets. Awake animals have little to do here. Unfortunately, with dogs it’s often a different story; they are often tied up all day on too short chains in a yard.

I am surprised when a flock of sheep walks behind me at one point. There are two dogs to keep the sheep in line, but the shepherd is leisurely following behind in a little car. His shoe soles won’t wear out quickly.

Football: please do not disturb.

The walking is going well, but the route is longer than expected and quite exhausting. After 33 km, I arrive in Cuprija, located by the Great Morava, a beautifully green river. I have booked a room and need to pick up the key at the restaurant below. There is a huge television screen, and the waiter is watching Liverpool/Manchester City. He is clearly not amused that his football match is interrupted by my arrival. He quickly leads me to my room, and just as quickly, I am under a cool shower. What luxury.