Day 5: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia

#reflection September 9, 2025

Early up, late on the road

The intention to leave early due to the heat fails miserably. After a perfect night’s sleep in my tent, I pack up early. Wild camping is prohibited in Serbia, but is usually tolerated; however, I don’t want to take any risks. At the crack of dawn, I move to the picnic table with a view of the Avala Tower, where I cooked my dinner yesterday. Now, it’s time for breakfast in ‘heaven’: silence, apart from the sounds of birds and crickets, fresh coffee, and writing under a parasol.

Heat

Later, I do have to pay for it; walking in full sun is no picnic. The thermometer rises to 32°C, and when a cloud occasionally drifts in front of the sun, it feels like a gift from above. This time, I make sure to drink enough, including electrolyte drink powder. I’ve learned my lesson well after I got very sick from dehydration in June following the hot Trail Days in the Hoge Veluwe.

Some parts are quite steep, and in this heat, I’m struggling a lot. Panting heavily, I go step by step uphill, often having to stop to catch my breath. Ideally, I would set up my tent somewhere, but I can’t; there’s no water point to get enough water to last the night. I’ve applied sunscreen well, but suddenly I feel my ears burning above my cap. I need to apply sunscreen to my ears too!

Lift on a tractor

As I, now trudging along, walk over a country road, a tractor with a trailer passes by. The farmer offers me a ride. Gratefully, I accept his offer. Communication is impossible; he and his wife speak no words across the border. To my shock, I also see that they do not turn towards Grocka at the first turn, but to another village. Stupidly, I didn’t ask where they were headed. I see on the map that it is just as far from their village as the spot where they picked me up, but now I can walk on a paved road, so it is indeed faster.

A shower!

Truly exhausted, I finally arrive in the village of Grocka. I book a room; camping here is tricky, and I just want a shower and to cool down. I am so tired, and my body aches from all the effort that I fall asleep without eating. I’m not hungry and have enough reserves, so oh well…