#throwback – June 5, 2024

Early in the morning I hear a barking deer again, but this time it doesn’t startle me. Once warned, twice prepared—but still, what a bloody racket those animals make. I take my time with a lazy, cozy morning, and then head toward Norrköping, a large city by Swedish standards. Bad weather is on the way, and camping near a “densely populated” area isn’t really an option, so I book a hotel where I can do some laundry.

And indeed, the weather shifts—dark skies, thunder, lightning. At first glance, Norrköping seems like an ugly city, with a cold-looking church and impersonal buildings. The rain doesn’t help; it starts pouring down. But my impression of the city ends up changing completely. It’s actually a remarkable place. First of all, it’s a university town—and you can feel it. There’s a certain energy in the air. It reminds me of Utrecht. The city center is full of surprises. The architecture seems like a jumble of styles, but somehow it all works and keeps surprising you. And the waterfalls running right through the middle of town—absolutely unique!

The rain keeps coming, so I quickly head to my hotel, but that turns out to be a disappointment: there’s no washing machine. Even though it clearly said so on the website. I’m annoyed—I now have to wash everything by hand. The woman at the hotel finds it strange that I want to do laundry—after all, I’m only staying one night. I don’t argue. She’s only available by phone, and there’s nothing I can change now anyway. I do plan to file a complaint later about the false information. Next time, I’ll call the place directly before I book.

That evening, I come to a crucial realization: in the hotel, I suddenly feel lonely and miserable. It’s a feeling I never have in nature or in my tent. Not once. I’ve read many books by backpackers who, after a few days in the tent, long for a real bed. But not me. I sleep wonderfully in my tent. It’s clear now—my tent is my home!