And then the day has come, May 15, I will depart. My life as a wandering and writing nomad can begin!

A 10-hour bus ride to the Danish border

I have decided to start in Denmark. A slow start, as I haven’t walked much this winter. Moreover, it’s not too far and after a 10-hour bus ride, I will arrive in Flensburg at the Danish border.

The route I plan to walk is the Hærvejen (also known as the ‘Heirway’ or ‘Ox Road’), one of the most iconic and historical hiking trails in Denmark. The path runs like a backbone through Jutland and offers a unique mix of nature, tranquility, and deep historical roots.

The backbone of Jutland

The total length of the route is about 500 kilometers. Most hikers take 20 to 25 days to complete it. I’ll see how long it takes me, my body and mind will naturally indicate what I need. We shall see!

The path is relatively flat to gently rolling and technically not difficult. The Hærvejen is known for its diverse Danish landscapes. You walk through vast heathlands, dense forests, rolling hills, and along lakes, and in the northern part, you find more dune landscapes and coastal areas. The route consists of a mix of sandy paths, gravel roads, and quiet asphalt roads.

Sleeping in wooden shelters and old farms

Regarding accommodations; there are special Hærvejsherberger (simple hostels), often in old farms. In addition, there are many free camping spots with ‘shelters’ (wooden huts) and fire pits. I can’t wait to set up my tent somewhere again or just lay my mat in a shelter. Wonderful.

In the footsteps of knights and oxen

The Hærvejen is not just a path; it is an ancient thoroughfare. The name literally means ‘Army Road,’ and since the Stone Age, this route has been used because it runs over the elevated watershed, allowing travelers to avoid swamps or wide rivers. In the Middle Ages, this was the main route for driving cattle (primarily oxen) from Denmark to the markets in Germany. Moreover, it is part of the European network of pilgrimage paths to Santiago de Compostela and Trondheim (the Olav Trail).

Denmark, here I come!