Different expectation

I did not expect this. Before I start a stage, I always read on hallandsleden.se what awaits me. But what I encounter today, I certainly would not have predicted. I am falling from one surprise to another.

Cold at night, foggy in the morning

First of all, I wake up at night from the cold. It turns out to be only eight degrees. It has been well above ten degrees at night for weeks, so I didn’t count on that. I zip up my sleeping bag, which I had loosely draped over me, and sleep warm again. When I wake up again, I enjoy the view. Light mist above the lake. It’s always so beautiful.

The ferry is ready

It’s nice to sleep on an island with a ferry, but you can only return to the mainland if the ferry is on the right side. If not, you can call a phone number to get picked up. That could take a long time, but I’m lucky. The ferry is there, and someone has just come to inspect the island. What luck again. It’s quite a workout to get across, but the hiking day can begin. I’m really looking forward to it. Thankfully, because it’s going to be many kilometers.

Enchanting forest

Shortly after I start, I walk through one of the most beautiful forests I have ever seen. Wide, rolling paths covered with pine needles. The sun shines through the trees and scattered are hundreds of large boulders, covered with moss. It feels mystical. Enchanting and yet also intimate.

Speaking stones

In this Toppbjär nature reserve, I come across Bexell’s speaking stones, engraved with red letters by landowner Alfred Bexell between 1880 and 1890. When I pull up Google Translate to translate what it says, I have no signal. I chuckle. I find that fitting for this place. Just enjoy not knowing.

No supermarket and almost no provisions

The next surprise comes at a farm in Öströö. I had seen on the map that there was a small supermarket, and I really counted on it because my supplies are running low. However, it turns out to be a sheep farm with a deli.

Clever business model, a sheep safari and more

I have to admit: they have come up with a clever business model because it is quite busy. You can take a sheep safari for €7.50 per person. They pull carts with a tractor and you drive through the expansive pastures, where you can see the sheep. Later, I walk through those pastures myself, as the Hallandsleden runs right through them. If those people had just walked another half kilometer, they would have seen it too. I find it remarkable.

Delicacies at outrageous prices

Then I take a quick look into the deli to see if there’s anything to eat. But I pass. Tiny jars of honey for €11, chocolate bars for €9.50, lamb burgers for €8, and I could go on like this for a while. Still, people are standing in line at the cash register. So, farmer: well done! The same goes for another shop with all sorts of sheep-related souvenirs. From wool to coasters and even a real bump sheep.

A real vineyard in Sweden

But that’s not all on this surprising day. Not long after, I pass through the tiny village of Ästad, where I suddenly see all sorts of things you won’t find anywhere else in the Swedish countryside. First of all, a real vineyard. It wouldn’t have occurred to me that it was even possible to grow grapes in Sweden, but apparently it is.

Ultimate luxury and a Michelin star

Ästad Vingård is renowned for its combination of organic viticulture and ultimate luxury, which is evident upon arrival. You can stay in lakeside suites, equipped with a private sauna. Additionally, there is a truly beautiful restaurant entirely built of glass and very well maintained, as everything shines. Restaurant ÄNG even has a Michelin Green Star. Although I hardly have any food left in my cart, I must pass on this restaurant. I don’t think they’ll let me in wearing my faded outdoor outfit.

Longing for a swim

And onward. After admiring all this, I set my sights on a lake by the Ätraforsdams. Hopefully, wild camping is allowed there. I could use a swim, and there are no shelters in this area, so I will definitely need to find a spot for my tent. But… I’ve spoken too soon.

Wheelie rolls down the mountain

A dreadful stretch comes straight up, which I can only conquer with Wheelie because fortunately, there are some trees I can hold onto and pull myself up, although my cart rolls down the hill once because I can’t keep it under control. Luckily, it stops quickly against a tree. No harm done. I take a long time for this section and even later in the forest, it’s really a search. Part of the route is overgrown, and the markers for the Hallandsleden, which are generally very good, are hard to see or obscured.

Camping together

Eventually, I arrive at my lake, with over 29 kilometers on the clock and a few scratches and a fall richer. There are three tents, four vans, and a camper, but that doesn’t dampen the fun. The grassy area by the lake is large with tables for everyone. People are eating, drinking, and playing. The atmosphere is excellent. I set my tent under a large oak tree. A nice quiet spot. I’m sure I’ll sleep very well after all these impressions and experiences!

Overnight stay: Ätrafors