It feels like the North Pole

The night will go down in the books as one of the worst ever. The wind howls around my tent and it’s freezing cold. The feels-like temperature is 3 degrees, but I feel like I’m at the North Pole. Deep in my sleeping bag and with my thermals on, I stay warm, but going to the bathroom is a real challenge.

The stakes wobble loose

I can’t fall asleep, my tent is flapping like crazy and I’m afraid the stakes might not hold. A justified worry, as I see them wobbling more and more. Eventually, I really have to get out at half past one to prevent anything worse. I look for a stone to drive the stakes well into the rock-hard ground. Luckily, that works, and like an ice block, I crawl back into my sleeping bag. Packing up my stuff in the morning is also a struggle. The wind is still icy, my hands are nearly freezing. But soon there is a reward!

Warming up in the bar

Sortelha has a bar that opens early. I don’t make my coffee by my tent, but enjoy it at a little table (okay, more than one naturally). What a joy. I write my piece and warmed up, I can go explore the old historic village. I’m glad I took the time for this. Another unique village, so different from the others.

A faint sun

After noon, I continue my way and yay, a faint sun comes out. It’s still not really warm, but my long pants come off because I find walking with covered legs terrible. I need to get rid of my warmth via my legs and I start to feel a bit nauseous when my legs get too warm. And that happens quickly. 10 degrees? Long pants off!

Camping by the sports field

I walk about 15 km to the hamlet of Aldeia de Santo António, where there is a small neighborhood shop. I ask the lady at the store if I can camp by the sports field. An ideal spot: grass without sprinklers, a water faucet, and benches from the stands. She agrees, and with the groceries I just bought, I prepare my meal and set up my tent well before dark. As the sun sets at seven, I quickly get inside, as the temperature drops rapidly, but it is calm, so I hope for a good night’s sleep.

Accommodation: Aldeia de Santo Antonio