Restless night

The spot by the river is fantastic. What peace, what a lovely view. The night, however, is less calm. Thunder, lightning, and hunger. I might as well take advantage of being awake and prepare some sandwiches with cheese. I also eat a banana. The body clearly wants something.

Chin on the chest

In the morning, I want to wash my face in the river, but due to the rain, the stones on the bank have become extremely slippery, which I didn’t realize. I slip and fall hard on my back. Because I used to do trampoline jumping in my youth, I reflexively bring my chin to my chest. That’s the first thing you learn to avoid injuries. My head doesn’t crash onto the rocks because of that. That’s a relief.

I’m being recognized

I walk further along the Côa river and over the old bridge. What a beautiful stretch! Not long after, I encounter a hiker coming toward me. In Flemish, he says I look familiar to him. It turns out we slept together in an inn on the Via de la Plata in Spain, in November 2024. How is that possible!

I have to move on

In the second historical village of this GR22, Almeida, I wander around for a few hours. What a remarkable village again. Completely walled in a star shape, with a beautiful ancient core. But I have to move on. The goal is to reach the village of Almofala, in the middle of the Parque Natural do Douro. According to the lady at the tourist office, I just need to ask there where I can camp, because camping in the park is strictly prohibited and the fines are astronomical.

Fatigue sets in

But no matter how well I walked in the early morning, fatigue is setting in. Not surprising after three very poor nights: the bus, the stifling, hot inn, and the sprinklers. I’m completely worn out. At three o’clock, still far outside the park, I decide to stop. I find a nice camping spot behind a large rock. My plan is to do some writing, but that doesn’t happen. I’m too tired for that as well.

Lazy afternoon

I lounge, cook, and watch the dark clouds. There is thunder and lightning in the distance, but luckily I am staying dry. I hope to recharge well tonight!

Overnight stay: Almeida