Heavy clattering water on my tent

I wake up from a huge downpour. The water is clattering on my tent. The fabric is sagging. Strange, no rain was expected, but yes, the rain radar is often unreliable. The clattering decreases and then increases, decreases and increases again,…

A quarter of an hour under the waterfall

The sprinklers hidden in the ground of the park where I put my tent are in full swing! It’s 12:15 AM. I had just fallen into a deep sleep but can also appreciate the fun of it. It lasts for a quarter of an hour and thankfully my tent remains dry inside. I was quite anxious with so much water violence, but my home held up well. It takes me a while to fall asleep again, but when I finally do… another sprinkling session.

Purple mountain leek

And so it goes on all night. Every hour my tent is generously watered with the scarce water for a green park. A bit broken from yet another sleepless night, I head out. The sun and the surroundings quickly make me forget the nighttime misery. The landscape is barren and dry, but the purple mountain leek pays no attention to that and blooms lavishly. It makes me incredibly happy.

Meal with the ants

By the church in Leomil, I sit under a tree in the shade and cook my meal. What a joy once again. I am joined by large black ants, who eagerly accept the spilled noodles. It’s fascinating to see how they carry them and how they chop a noodle that is stuck into three pieces to transport it.

Fatigue sets in

My plan was to reach the second historic village, Almeida, today, but it is again on top of a mountain and the climb there is tough. After three sleepless nights – on the bus, in the sweltering inn, and between the sprinklers – I feel the fatigue in my body. That mountain, maybe not today.

Idyllic spot by the river

I walk a small kilometer off the trail to the banks of the Côa River. And that was a good move. My sleeping spot is one in a thousand. On the shore, with views in every direction and total peace. The water is delightful. I sit for a while with my feet in the water and wash myself thoroughly before I dive into my tent. Refreshingly cool and no issues with sprinklers here.

Overnight stay: RíoCôa