#throwback – May 29, 2024

Soft rain falls during the night — such a lovely sound to fall asleep to. I find four ticks. Ugh. I’m so glad I got vaccinated against the tick-borne virus that circulates here — different from the Lyme disease bacteria we have in the Netherlands, for which there’s unfortunately no vaccine. Still, you have to stay alert, every single day.

In Örberga, I find a beautiful little church and a public toilet, where I take the time to wash myself properly. But I end up leaving my hiking poles behind. Grrr. A few kilometres later I realise it and have to go back. At the next church I stop for lunch — it’s still early, but I’m starving again. I eat three rye crispbreads with mackerel. They taste amazing. While I’m sitting there, I start chatting with a German cyclist, Ulrich, who spontaneously offers me a place to stay if I’m ever near Lingen, just across the Dutch border near Enschede. Such a kind gesture — I just need to call a day in advance.

Then I arrive in Vadstena, where I hope my new frame is waiting at the post office. And yes — there it is! Success! I’m so happy. Big thanks once again to Radical Design for the excellent service. I’m ready to hit the road again!

The monastery in Vadstena is a letdown — and it’s closed too. I had expected more, especially since this is the official end of the pilgrimage route, the St. Birgitta Ways. You imagine something like Santiago de Compostela… but no, nothing like it. A pity. On the other hand, the castle is beautiful, and there’s an exhibition of vintage cars along the moat.

Then comes the real challenge: finding a place to sleep. I’m now in a populated area, and there’s nowhere to go. After walking 32 km, I end up pitching my tent in the bushes beside a highway and a railway line. It’s nearly dark — meaning around 11 p.m. Not ideal, and the place is swarming with mosquitoes, but it’s my only option. That said, I sleep wonderfully.