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You have to go to Nepal!

Published on by Marnix van der LijnLeave a comment

May 11, 2024

After a slow start and a nice breakfast at the hotel, I head out again. My knee is still a bit swollen from fluid, but it feels much better, and I think I can—and may—start walking again. As I step out of my room, a not so tall young man with a striking appearance asks if he can help me. It’s actually very welcome, since maneuvering the Wheelie through all the doors and down the long hallway isn’t easy. “You must be the hiker with the injured knee,” he says. “I heard about you.” He tells me he works part-time at the hotel and is from Nepal. He’s doing his Master’s at the nearby university. “If you love hiking, you must visit Nepal someday!”
I can see the pride in his dark eyes. It’s true—Nepal is a dream country for long-distance hikes, though definitely beyond my current budget. He gives me a tip: “Find a local guide, don’t go through expensive tour companies.” That fits perfectly with my travel style. Another dream destination added to the list…

I’m lucky today—the route is all on asphalt and gravel. It’s a long, monotonous road, but I feel my knee getting stronger with every kilometer. No rough trails or steep climbs. After a slightly awkward start, the walk feels great. It’s wonderful to be outside again. The weather’s better too, and I’ve entered Småland—a place I only knew before as the play area at IKEA.

Around 5 p.m., I cook dinner at a stunning picnic spot with a little swimming dock. Swimming though? Still a no-go—it’s too cold for me. I’m definitely not a cold-water hero.
But I’m enjoying this so much. This is amazing! After the warm meal, I walk a bit farther, and just before sunset, I leave the main path and find a wild camping spot by the water. I sleep like a rock.

Mandatory rest

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May 10, 2024

My knee’s not doing great. It’s swollen and sore. It feels like I’ve lost control over the muscles, like my leg might just give out underneath me. Very wobbly. Hmm… not good. It doesn’t seem serious, but pushing on right now wouldn’t be smart.

I weigh my options. What should I do? It’s a cold day, and sitting still outside just isn’t pleasant. I check my phone to see if there’s any place to sleep nearby—and yes, as if it were meant to be! Less than two kilometers away there’s a hotel with a good deal. A room for €54, breakfast included. I can’t pass that up. A full day of rest it is.

Strangely, I’m not disappointed or worried about this little setback. It just is, and I adjust to the new reality as if it were the most natural thing in the world.

I hobble into the hotel around 1 p.m., and I’m allowed into my room right away—an extra bit of luck. After a long (and very welcome) shower, I wash some clothes and reorganize my gear. Even my Wheelie’s wheels get a shower. I clean them and apply some WD40—good maintenance is key to longevity, they had told me back in the workshop in Gasselternijveen, Drenthe, where I visited with my dad.

Then it’s a reading and writing day. Although I originally planned to travel anonymously, I now decide to start sharing my journey on Instagram. I still don’t really understand how it all works, so it’s a good time to figure it out.
And wow, I’m really enjoying this day. Outside it’s unpleasant, but I’m cozy in my own bubble. I don’t leave the room and eat at the desk.

My knee still hurts, but it’s getting better by the hour. I’m hopeful that this rest day will be enough to get me back on track soon. Life is good. It really is!

Tears in the church

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May 9,  2024

After a lot of dawdling, I finally get going. Honestly, I’m snoozing with a capital S these days. Still, I end up walking 32 km. I find a lovely rhythm and enjoy every step.

Public toilets are really common here, and they’re beautiful and spotless. I think there’s a law that says there always has to be an accessible toilet too—super convenient. They’re spacious enough for me to roll my cart right in. Sometimes they’re compost toilets, but more often they have sinks and even hot running water. When they do, I take the opportunity to freshen up properly. Swimming still feels like a step too far—I’m not that brave yet when it comes to cold water. So I’m thrilled when I come across a little hut next to a farm that anyone can use. Of course I take full advantage. I leave there feeling fresh and clean, and not long after I stumble upon a little open-air museum. It’s lovely to see how Swedish people used to live and work.

Today I try something different: I cook and eat a hot meal around two in the afternoon. It works out well. After a long break I continue with new energy, and in the evening I don’t need to rush to cook or find a campsite.

In Örkelljunga I hear organ music coming from the church. It’s a beautiful building, with a wooden shingled roof—something I haven’t seen before. I walk inside. The organist is practicing. He comes down to see who entered after hearing the door shut. He lets me stay.
He gives me a private concert. It’s powerful—and it moves me deeply. I don’t know why, but emotions start bubbling up, and suddenly I’m crying. I’m not thinking about anything in particular. I just feel. I’m alive!

After this intense experience, I continue looking for a place to camp. This time it’s tough—there are several areas here where camping isn’t allowed, only for fishermen. But after a few more kilometers, I find a spot. By then it’s started raining, and I pitch my tent in a hurry. Not ideal, but it is what it is.

That night I sleep poorly. Earlier, during a steep climb, I pushed hard on my knee, twisted, and heard something snap. The pain went away quickly, and I thought it was nothing. I even walked another 10 km afterward without issue… But unfortunately, it’s not that simple.

Sleeping in a graveyard

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May 8, 2024

I hit the trail around 11 a.m.—it’s getting later and later, haha. And then, once I’m walking and that wonderful feeling sweeps over me, I always think: why didn’t I start earlier? The weather is stunning. Today it’s more forest, but also wide, open farmland. A beautiful mix, and it keeps getting quieter. Everything is so green—some of the leaves practically glow. Fifty shades of green, truly.

I’m amazed by the mega-supermarket Willy:s. They have everything, and it’s cheap too. Of course, I buy way too much—something I regret later when the cart feels heavy and parts of the trail become tricky. I snap a photo of the two Willies: the Wheelie and Willy:s. In my head I say it with a thick Amsterdam accent: Willie & Willie. It makes me laugh. And hey, it’s always good to laugh at yourself, right?

I spend the night at a fantastic, unusual spot—by another little lake. Technically speaking… I’m sleeping in a graveyard. What a place! The Grave-Field at Vasasjön. Four of the six ancient graves are still visible, arranged in a three-pointed star. They date back to the 5th or 6th century. Woooow—I feel so incredibly lucky to experience this. On tonight’s menu: Swedish meatballs. And honestly? Way better than IKEA’s.

Throwing all the rules overboard

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#terugblik – May 7, 2024

The spot by the lake is so lovely and sunny that I don’t start walking until 10:30. Sleeping in has become the norm by now—it seems that’s just my natural rhythm. I’ve also decided to start eating only when I’m actually hungry, not according to typical Dutch mealtimes. I figure my body will let me know. Today, for instance, I have no appetite in the morning, so I skip breakfast and wait until I can buy some fresh food at the supermarket. I eat it in a little park. So good.

It turns into a lazy day. I walk only 17 kilometers, which is a joke for a long-distance hiker. Still, I hit my first climb today, and it’s rougher than expected. My legs are used to flat land, not hills—but I know from experience they’ll adjust quickly.

I’m super happy with my Wheelie, my hiking cart. With just a backpack, there’s no way I could carry this much fresh food for several days. Eating well and staying healthy really does matter when you’re on the road for a whole year. That said, there are always little challenges along the way. Nothing major—just things that take a bit more time and occasionally lead to funny situations.

I walk through farmland and forest, and by 6 p.m. I stop at a shelter in the woods. This time I decide not to pitch my tent and see how I sleep under an open roof. There are fire pits and some wood, so I build a fire—not a luxury, since it’s actually pretty cold.
I sleep wonderfully again, though it feels a bit like I’m abandoning my trusty little tent… But how sweet to wake up with a squirrel rustling around near my bed in the morning.

Walking through fragrant yellow

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#throwback – May 6, 2024

It’s becoming a bit of a routine now—getting up and packing takes time. But the coffee, on the other hand, tastes better each day. Once again, I hit the trail late. The day starts off rough, with a chilly wind, but by the end of the afternoon the sun’s back out. Nothing changes quite like the weather.

I walk long stretches again through that fragrant yellow, surrounded by agricultural fields. In front of a few houses, I spot a beautiful sculpture of a horse, made entirely from bicycle and car parts. A true piece of art. The church in Sireköping is stunning, rising above the landscape from afar. Unfortunately, the door is locked—I can’t see the inside.

Once again I find a beautiful camping spot by a small lake. So peaceful, so rich, so full of quiet abundance.

The first 100 kilometers are behind me!

The first 100 km are behind me!

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#throwback – May 5, 2024

I eat my breakfast on a bench and linger there for quite a while, soaking up the morning sun. I had already packed my gear early because rain was in the forecast, but for now, the sky stays dry. I just can’t seem to get going today—but honestly, that’s perfectly fine. My mind, however, hasn’t quite caught up with that idea yet.

I’ve packed my cart differently again. It’s important to keep the heaviest items as close to the wheels as possible. I need to find a system that allows me to reach things quickly. You learn by doing—especially with stuff like this. Along the way, you naturally discover what works and what doesn’t. I’m also carrying a backpack. In some photos it looks stuffed, but it actually weighs very little. It just holds the things I want easy access to: my rain gear, the rain cover for the Wheelie, my notebook, a small bottle of water, maybe some snacks.

The yellow, fragrant rapeseed is in full bloom, and I walk for kilometers through flower-covered fields. Absolutely stunning. My nose in particular is thrilled—the scent is soft and sweet.

On the way, I come across a burial mound dating back to 4200–1800 BC. There’s a long passageway you can crawl into and explore inside.

I’d spotted a beach shelter on the map, just past Landskrona. It’s a bit off the official route, but it seemed like a perfect spot—and I’m not wrong. With the rain now finally starting to fall, it’s great to have some cover.

The first 100 kilometers are behind me!

The fatigue sets in

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#throwback – May 4, 2024

I sleep incredibly well on my first night in the tent, but still, I spend much of the day taking it easy. The exhaustion of the past few months is definitely catching up with me. It’s cold in the morning, but with the right gear, that doesn’t really matter. It’s pure bliss to brew a cup of coffee while still snuggled in my warm sleeping bag, feeling the fresh air on my face.

I’m still figuring out the best way to pack my hiking cart, the Wheelie. It feels a bit cumbersome for now, but I’m sure I’ll get the hang of it soon enough. I continue along the stunning coastline. The day starts out sunny, but by early afternoon a sharp wind picks up and the weather shifts completely. It turns misty and raw. Later in the day, as the trail heads inland, things clear up again. I find a beautiful camping spot by a lake full of fish. A man walking by with his dog tells me that’s a sure sign the water is clean. That’s good news, because I plan to make my coffee with it tomorrow.

There’s a bench where I can sit and prepare dinner. I experiment with some instant pasta in a cup, adding fresh vegetables, and it tastes surprisingly good. Why is it that food always tastes better out in nature—even when it’s nothing special?

I pitch my tent in the forest, tucked away where no one can see me. Somehow I still have that feeling in the back of my mind that wild camping isn’t allowed, that I should stay out of sight. But this isn’t the Netherlands—this is Sweden. It’ll take some getting used to. I’m sure it won’t be long before I start pitching my little tent wherever I like, without a second thought.

Malmö – the beginning of my Swedish adventure

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#throwback – May 3, 2024

After a wonderful night’s sleep in Copenhagen, and a walk through the city’s new harbor district, I catch the train to Malmö. A short 40-minute ride. And just like that—I’ve arrived in Sweden! A country I’ve never been to and know very little about. It feels like this is where the real journey begins.

In the morning, I plan one last city walk, this time through Malmö. Another place well worth exploring. One of its most iconic sights is the Turning Torso, a twisting skyscraper in the Västra Hamnen district, right on the Swedish side of the Öresund, directly across from Copenhagen. My walk takes me around the tower from all different angles. Once again, the weather is beautiful, and the solar panels on my Wheelie are charging perfectly. After visiting the St. Petri cathedral, I feel like I’ve had enough of the city. It’s nearly 4 p.m.—time to head for nature. Two days of urban life is a bit much for me.

First, I have to make it through a painfully long stretch of industrial area—not exactly inspiring—but once I reach the coastline and begin heading north, everything changes. For the first time, I’ll be wild camping in Sweden. I’ve been looking forward to this moment for so long.

In Sweden, you’re allowed to camp pretty much anywhere, as long as you stay at least 150 meters from houses, take all your trash with you (obviously), and don’t harm any plants or disturb animals. And I have to say—people seem to respect that. I haven’t seen litter anywhere. And eventually, I find the perfect spot. I cook my first one-pot meal in my lightweight frying pan, and it tastes amazing. Then I pitch my tent and sit back to enjoy a stunning sunset, surrounded by curious little rabbits hopping around. This is exactly what I dreamed of.

Wandering through Copenhagen

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#throwback – May 2, 2024

I arrive in Copenhagen at 9:30 a.m. Slept little to none, but who cares. The weather is amazing — 19 degrees Celcius and full-on sunshine. I’ve got the whole day to explore this brand new city. Plenty to see. I’d found a nice walking route beforehand and I’m soaking up every second of my first full day outside.

Overall, the city of Copenhagen feels pretty calm, and I can take everything in at my own pace — except at the Little Mermaid, of course. Total madness there. So I move on quickly and sit down at a picnic table by the harbor with a tasty sandwich and some coffee I brewed myself.

Even after a sleepless night, I end up walking the whole day. Around 6 p.m., I check into my hostel, grab a pizza, and not long after — at 8:30 p.m. — I crash hard in my bunk bed at A&O Copenhagen Sydhavn. I don’t even hear my roommates come in, but when I wake up the next morning, five people are still snoring around me. And I slept through it all — without earplugs!