#throwback – 12 June 2024

In the early morning I enjoy the mist rising above the little lake—what a view from my inflatable mattress! So lovely to wake up like this and doze off again. The promised sun and 15 degrees turn out to be a sham. It rains for hours, and I stay in the shelter until half past one. It truly lives up to its name. I don’t mind—laptop open, I write for a few hours. I do adjust my route though: instead of tackling tricky mountain paths, I faff around a bit and take the easier gravel roads.

Around six I pass a small church with a fancy white wooden bench set. I cook there and use the public toilet, complete with running water, soap and a mirror. The sun even makes an appearance, making it just warm enough to linger there for a good while.

I’ve set my sights on a shelter in a nature reserve. Camping is almost impossible here due to all the rocks and uneven terrain. It’s still quite a trek, but at exactly 10:00 p.m. I arrive—only to discover that camping isn’t allowed here, not even in the shelter. Annoying, especially as it’s getting dark, but luckily I spot another hut just 2.6 km away.

But that short stretch turns into a real ordeal. I can’t see well in the dark, I lose the trail, and the area is truly rough—fallen trees, rocks, and muddy patches. It takes me an hour and forty-five minutes to finally reach my destination. By then, it’s midnight. Along the way, I catch myself talking out loud, like to a small child attempting something difficult: “Okay, one step forward… pause… look carefully… turn around… pull the cart uphill… one, two, pull… yes, that’s it… now keep going… easy… watch your step.” It helps me stay focused, avoid tripping, and reach the end without injury.

Relief washes over me when I arrive safe and sound. It takes another hour before my adrenaline finally settles down.