The comfort of the fog
I wake up in the fog. Wonderful, it gives me a sense of security. I slept well, which I really needed. Soaking wet, I pack up my tent and walk three kilometers to the village of Malpartida, where I hope to find some water. That’s really necessary, as there will be nothing until Almofala, where I think I will camp.
In search of water
It is dead quiet in the village. No one to ask for water. I only hope there’s a fountain or tap somewhere. On the map, I see a small square with a church and indeed, a tap! How well organized it is. Almost every village center has a water source.
Coffee connects
But the village is certainly not deserted. On the other side, the bar is already open. It’s Sunday morning and villagers come and go for coffee and a chat. I can’t resist and order a coffee for €0.80. Let me also break the norm a bit.
Brushing teeth in the nature park
The route continues through the Parque Natural do Douro. Beautiful views, impressive rock formations, and unique vegetation. A piece of apple stuck between my teeth annoys me for kilometers. I can’t get it out, not even with a toothpick. So irritating. Desperate, I pull out my electric toothbrush from my gear. Yes, I try to travel as light as possible, but not like the ultra-light hikers who saw off their toothbrushes to save weight. The extra weight of my electric We Smyle toothbrush, which only needs charging once every three months, I accept.
Almost an accident
I haven’t seen anyone all day, but just as I am brushing my teeth, a pick-up truck drives up. The man looks at me with his mouth open and even turns around. He almost drives his car into the ditch. It must have been an absurd scene…
Camping in the schoolyard
Upon arriving at the village of Almofala, I ask where I can set up my tent. This was recommended to me by the lady at the tourist office in Almeida. Camping around the village is not allowed, as it is still Parque Natural. I can pitch my tent on the grass by the old school. Perfect! The children won’t wake me, as they are no longer there…
Overnight stay: Almofala





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A Sunday morning coffee for €0.80 in a village bar sounds perfect—simple, warm, and connecting. Moments like that often matter more than the miles covered on a long-distance trail.
I totally agree and it is definitely part of my journey. I want to experience and feel the local vibes. It’s not about the kilometres, it’s about life.