From canyon to silence

Crowded in the gorge

After my coffee and breakfast, I head down the mountain back to the village of Fjällbacka. In the middle of the village lies a true tourist attraction: the enormous granite rock Vetteberget, which towers 74 meters straight up. Through it runs the spectacular Kungsklyftan, the King’s Gorge, a narrow gap between vertical granite walls where gigantic boulders are wedged above your head (famous from the movie Ronja the Robber’s Daughter).

A strange feeling, you know those boulders can’t fall, yet you feel relieved once you’re under them. Walking quickly is not easy with all those people and the boulders you have to scramble over. It is a bit too crowded for my liking, but I’m glad I came to see it. From the top, the view over the granite islands off the coast is stunning.

Granite, granite, and more granite

Wheelie, which I left down below, is patiently waiting for me. I continue on. That’s enough crowds for today. This coast is known for its granite, and I now understand why. Sometimes I walk over smooth granite ridges along the sea, then descend to sheltered farmland or a bit of forest before emerging again on the pink rocks by the water. The landscape keeps changing, and granite is visible everywhere.

A shower for 5 euros

At a small harbor, I cook my warm meal on a picnic table. In the meantime, I charge my spare power bank and take a shower in the harbor building. Wonderful. With salt on my skin from swimming, I sleep just a little less comfortably. That’s actually the only disadvantage of this coast. You won’t find any lakes with fresh water to jump into. Showers are either non-existent or you have to pay a lot for them.

Crawling through the small door

The day comes to an end after a challenging forest path filled with large stones, not my favorite terrain with Wheelie, but I manage to reach a lovely little shelter; a wooden cabin with two benches, just wide enough to sleep on. To get inside, you have to crawl, the door is that low. It reminds me that I’m not quite as flexible anymore… That’s the only downside. What a spot it is again. Phenomenal!

Overnight stay: Anneröd


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