{"id":2996,"date":"2026-03-26T19:30:25","date_gmt":"2026-03-26T18:30:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/?p=2275"},"modified":"2026-05-11T15:11:58","modified_gmt":"2026-05-11T13:11:58","slug":"ontbijt-in-de-hemel-lopen-in-de-hel-de-hitte-op-de-sultans-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/ontbijt-in-de-hemel-lopen-in-de-hel-de-hitte-op-de-sultans-trail\/","title":{"rendered":"Breakfast in heaven, walking in hell: the heat on the Sultans Trail."},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Day 5: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia<\/h2>\n\n

#reflection September 9, 2025<\/p>\n\n

Early up, late on the road<\/h2>\n\n

The intention to leave early due to the heat fails miserably. After a perfect night\u2019s sleep in my tent, I pack up early. Wild camping is prohibited in Serbia<\/a>, but is usually tolerated; however, I don\u2019t want to take any risks. At the crack of dawn, I move to the picnic table with a view of the Avala Tower<\/a>, where I cooked my dinner yesterday. Now, it\u2019s time for breakfast in \u2018heaven\u2019: silence, apart from the sounds of birds and crickets, fresh coffee, and writing under a parasol.<\/p>\n\n

Heat<\/h2>\n\n

Later, I do have to pay for it; walking in full sun is no picnic. The thermometer rises to 32\u00b0C, and when a cloud occasionally drifts in front of the sun, it feels like a gift from above. This time, I make sure to drink enough, including electrolyte drink powder. I’ve learned my lesson well after I got very sick from dehydration in June following the hot Trail Days<\/a> in the Hoge Veluwe.<\/p>\n\n

Some parts are quite steep, and in this heat, I’m struggling a lot. Panting heavily, I go step by step uphill, often having to stop to catch my breath. Ideally, I would set up my tent somewhere, but I can’t; there\u2019s no water point to get enough water to last the night. I\u2019ve applied sunscreen well, but suddenly I feel my ears burning above my cap. I need to apply sunscreen to my ears too!<\/p>\n\n

Lift on a tractor<\/h2>\n\n

As I, now trudging along, walk over a country road, a tractor with a trailer passes by. The farmer offers me a ride. Gratefully, I accept his offer. Communication is impossible; he and his wife speak no words across the border. To my shock, I also see that they do not turn towards Grocka<\/a> at the first turn, but to another village. Stupidly, I didn’t ask where they were headed. I see on the map that it is just as far from their village as the spot where they picked me up, but now I can walk on a paved road, so it is indeed faster.<\/p>\n\n

A shower!<\/h2>\n\n

Truly exhausted, I finally arrive in the village of Grocka. I book a room; camping here is tricky, and I just want a shower and to cool down. I am so tired, and my body aches from all the effort that I fall asleep without eating. I’m not hungry and have enough reserves, so oh well…<\/p>\n\n

\n
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Day 5: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #reflection September 9, 2025 Early up, late on the road The intention to leave early due to the heat fails miserably. 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En daar voel ik me thuis.","sameAs":["https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/marnix_footsteps_of_freedom\/"],"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/author\/cheersmarnix\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-26-at-19.19.48.jpeg?fit=1200%2C1600&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":2623,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/setting-off-on-a-new-adventure-the-sultans-trail\/","url_meta":{"origin":2996,"position":0},"title":"Setting off on a new adventure: the Sultans Trail","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"22 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Departing for Belgrade from Amsterdam via Vienna and Budapest to hike the Sultans Trail long-distance path from Belgrade to Sofia.","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2603,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/from-wage-slave-to-nomad-my-path-to-ultimate-freedom\/","url_meta":{"origin":2996,"position":1},"title":"From wage slave to nomad: my path to ultimate freedom","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"12 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Footsteps of Freedom: the path to a writing and hiking life Resignation and cold feet It's been quiet on this blog for a while, but that's about to change. The time is almost here: I've handed in my notice. March 31 is my last day at work, and I hope\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-09-at-19.29.57.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-09-at-19.29.57.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-09-at-19.29.57.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-09-at-19.29.57.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2756,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/catnaps-and-hungarian-vibes-the-lead-up-to-the-sultans-trail\/","url_meta":{"origin":2996,"position":2},"title":"Catnaps and Hungarian vibes: The lead-up to the Sultans Trail","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"23 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Day 2: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #throwback September 6, 2025 Special conversations on the night train Miraculously, I feel quite rested after my catnaps in my seat on the night train. Before arriving in Vienna, I have another pleasant conversation with my tablemates. 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Yes, I am scared sometimes, but not often, and it\u2019s just part of the\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-04-at-14.22.50.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-04-at-14.22.50.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-04-at-14.22.50.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-04-at-14.22.50.jpeg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2260,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/the-great-magic-trick-and-other-bumps-on-the-road-to-belgrade\/","url_meta":{"origin":2996,"position":5},"title":"The great magic trick and other bumps on the road to Belgrade","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"24 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"How is the journey from Budapest to Belgrade on the Sultans Trail? 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