{"id":2993,"date":"2026-03-30T19:16:00","date_gmt":"2026-03-30T17:16:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/?p=2326"},"modified":"2026-05-11T15:08:34","modified_gmt":"2026-05-11T13:08:34","slug":"geen-texas-chainsaw-massacre-wel-servische-koffiedrab-mijn-dag-in-despotovac","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/geen-texas-chainsaw-massacre-wel-servische-koffiedrab-mijn-dag-in-despotovac\/","title":{"rendered":"Not Texas Chainsaw Massacre, but Serbian coffee grounds: my day in Despotovac"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Day 9: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia<\/h2>\n\n

#lookback September 13, 2025<\/p>\n\n

Wild camping in a cornfield<\/h2>\n\n

At night, the rain is gentle. There is no sound as zen as the soft raindrops on my tent, what a pleasure. At seven o’clock, I am awakened by distant church bells. Half an hour later, they ring again. The mass must be over. Time for me to get up.<\/p>\n\n

A follower writes to me, “Sleeping next to a cornfield, what a spooky setting!” Creepy things often hide there, and The Texas Chain Saw Massacre also took place in a cornfield. Not long after, I feel eyes on me… could it be? It turns out to be a curious young kitten. I have survived my adventure; I can go on!<\/p>\n\n

Always those dogs<\/h2>\n\n

The route mostly goes over asphalt and through quiet villages. Everything seems deserted, as if only dogs reside there. At every house, I am barked at either cheerfully or aggressively, from deep, heavy barks to high-pitched yapping that hurts my ears.<\/p>\n\n

An exquisite lunch with muddy coffee<\/h2>\n\n

The temperature is rising significantly; there is no shade to be found. It\u2019s sweltering. Around noon, I arrive in Despotovac<\/a>, where I immediately dive into a cool restaurant. I eat wonderfully and get acquainted with Serbian muddy coffee. Once the worst of the heat has passed, I walk on to the Manasija Monastery<\/a>, founded in the early 1400s. It is impressive to walk around there and once again observe the devotion of the local residents.<\/p>\n\n

As I walk out of the monastery, a young man runs up behind me. He asks if I’m the Australian man<\/a> who has been traveling around the world for 25 years with a cart. No, I’m not, but I would love to do that for another 25 years. If I stay in good health, it should still be possible!<\/p>\n\n

Hospitality at the picnic spot<\/h2>\n\n

300 meters from the prayer area, there’s a picnic area where you can camp. There’s one other tent, a campfire, and about 20 adults and children are having a great time. I’m immediately invited to join them later; they have enough food and drinks.<\/p>\n\n

A boy about 12 years old asks if I would like to learn some Serbian. He teaches me how to greet and count a bit; it’s quite touching. However, I quickly go into my tent afterwards; I’m not feeling well, it seems like I’m getting a cold and I have a slight headache. I’m skipping the drinks this time.<\/p>\n\n

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The time is almost here: I've handed in my notice. 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