{"id":2747,"date":"2026-03-25T20:04:39","date_gmt":"2026-03-25T19:04:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/a-night-of-horror-blood-and-thorns-my-difficult-departure-from-belgrade\/"},"modified":"2026-04-18T07:59:09","modified_gmt":"2026-04-18T05:59:09","slug":"a-night-of-horror-blood-and-thorns-my-difficult-departure-from-belgrade","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/a-night-of-horror-blood-and-thorns-my-difficult-departure-from-belgrade\/","title":{"rendered":"A night of horror, blood, and thorns: my difficult departure from Belgrade"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Day 4: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia<\/h2>\n\n

#throwback September 8, 2025<\/p>\n\n

Horror night in the hostel<\/h2>\n\n

Listen and shudder\u2014the life of a hiker isn’t always a bed of roses. Or maybe it is; roses have nasty thorns, and I had plenty of those today. Literally and figuratively. <\/p>\n\n

Starting with the horror night. I should have known\u2014a dirt-cheap hostel in a big city like Belgrade<\/a> can attract some strange people. Never again. Old and rickety doesn’t put me off, but shady people do. The Filipino receptionist is very friendly, and the existing group of international travelers from China, Taiwan, Brazil, and Germany already know each other and are having a great time, but as the evening progresses, things get increasingly grim. Shady types with a stench of smoke and alcohol check in. They are loud and rude. It doesn’t feel right. <\/p>\n\n

Fortunately, they are assigned a different room, but I put my most important belongings under my pillow just to be safe. People are drinking, talking, and laughing loudly until three-thirty in the morning, and every few minutes someone noisily enters the dorm to grab something or lie down. It’s hell. The cold shower\u2014just a few trickles, as there’s no hot water\u2014is the least of the problems in this filthy hostel where everything is broken or about to break. <\/p>\n\n

Saint Sava Temple<\/h2>\n\n

After some strong black coffee, I leave as early as six o’clock. I want to get out of here, and fast. A highlight this early morning is a visit to the Saint Sava Temple<\/a>, but the outskirts of Belgrade are filthy and noisy. I’m glad when I finally walk into the woods. However, that’s short-lived because the path is completely unmaintained. There’s wild growth of brambles everywhere, and many plants have huge sharp thorns. Blood is now running down my arms and legs; it’s a real struggle. Other paths are overgrown with grass and no longer visible. I can only follow the route using my hiking app Komoot<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n

Blood, sweat, and more blood<\/h2>\n\n

Then I hit an impenetrable wall of bramble bushes. I have to go all the way back. When I take another path, I face the same problem; this path is also impassable. Going all the way back and taking the road is the only option. Exhausted, I arrive in the village of Beli Potok<\/a>, where I have an ice cream and do some shopping. <\/p>\n\n

Then it’s another 50-minute climb to the picnic spot below the Avala Tower<\/a>. I wonder why the last stretch is always like this\u2014it always seems to be uphill, especially when all you want to do is arrive. It’s past seven o’clock now, and cooking dinner doesn’t go quite as planned, but I finally have some peace and can go to sleep in my tent. Yes! <\/p>\n\n

\n
\"Church<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Avala<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Day 4: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #throwback September 8, 2025 Horror night in the hostel Listen and shudder\u2014the life of a hiker isn’t always a bed of roses. Or maybe it is;… More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2749,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[7],"tags":[236,235,234,240],"class_list":["post-2747","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs-en","tag-long-distance-hike","tag-serbia","tag-sultanstrail","tag-wildkamperen"],"yoast_head":"\nA night of horror, blood, and thorns: my difficult departure from Belgrade - FOOTSTEPS OF FREEDOM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"From a horror night in a Belgrade hostel to bleeding legs from impassable brambles and the climb to the Avala Tower. 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Na een loopbaan in de commerci\u00eble wereld, coaching en training, en jarenlange inzet in de vluchtelingenopvang, koos ik op mijn zestigste voor een radicale wending: ik gaf mezelf een sabbatical en trok de wereld in \u2013 te voet. Wat begon als een plan om 10.000 kilometer door Europa te wandelen, groeide uit tot iets veel groters: een nieuwe manier van leven. In negen maanden legde ik meer dan 5.500 kilometer af, met alleen mijn tent, schrijfboek, wandelkar (die ik liefdevol \u2018Wheelie\u2019 noem) en mijn barefoot schoenen. Al lopend ontdekte ik dat dit mijn pad is: een nomadisch bestaan, schrijvend onderweg. Ik geloof in het ritme van de voeten, in eenvoud, traagheid en aanwezigheid. Reizen zonder haast, leven met weinig, en onderweg de verhalen vangen die zich aandienen. Mijn missie? De schoonheid van vertraging, vrijheid en verbondenheid tastbaar maken in woorden. Ik b\u00e9n onderweg. En daar voel ik me thuis.","sameAs":["https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/marnix_footsteps_of_freedom\/"],"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/author\/cheersmarnix\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-25-at-17.18.36-1.jpeg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":2623,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/setting-off-on-a-new-adventure-the-sultans-trail\/","url_meta":{"origin":2747,"position":0},"title":"Setting off on a new adventure: the Sultans Trail","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"22 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Departing for Belgrade from Amsterdam via Vienna and Budapest to hike the Sultans Trail long-distance path from Belgrade to Sofia.","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-22-at-20.08.35.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2260,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/the-great-magic-trick-and-other-bumps-on-the-road-to-belgrade\/","url_meta":{"origin":2747,"position":1},"title":"The great magic trick and other bumps on the road to Belgrade","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"24 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"How is the journey from Budapest to Belgrade on the Sultans Trail? Discover the challenges with a hiking trailer, customs troubles, and first impressions of Serbia in this blog.","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Sultans Trail Hungary - Serbia Border","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2756,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/catnaps-and-hungarian-vibes-the-lead-up-to-the-sultans-trail\/","url_meta":{"origin":2747,"position":2},"title":"Catnaps and Hungarian vibes: The lead-up to the Sultans Trail","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"23 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Day 2: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #throwback September 6, 2025 Special conversations on the night train Miraculously, I feel quite rested after my catnaps in my seat on the night train. Before arriving in Vienna, I have another pleasant conversation with my tablemates. I'm sitting at a\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_5230-e1774245228449.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_5230-e1774245228449.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_5230-e1774245228449.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/IMG_5230-e1774245228449.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2663,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/bravo-on-the-trail-and-a-one-night-stand-at-sanjas\/","url_meta":{"origin":2747,"position":3},"title":"“Bravo!” on the trail and a “one-night stand” at Sanja’s","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"9 April 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Day 15: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #throwback September 19, 2025 Breakfast at 10 degrees After an incredibly wonderful night's sleep in my tent\u2014I was already asleep before 9:00 PM\u2014I head out at 6:15 AM. It's going to be another hot day, and this way I can cover\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-08-at-20.00.20.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-08-at-20.00.20.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-08-at-20.00.20.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-08-at-20.00.20.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-08-at-20.00.20.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2767,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/coffee-church-and-cocooning-the-art-of-idling-in-smederevo\/","url_meta":{"origin":2747,"position":4},"title":"Coffee, church, and cocooning: the art of idling in Smederevo","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"28 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Day 7: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #flashback September 11, 2025 Rest A rest day today! I booked a room for two days in the town of Smederevo, famous for its massive medieval fortress and the beautiful Serbian Orthodox church. My room, at 20 euros per night, comes\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Sultans Trail Smederevo Saint John Church","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-28-at-17.49.55.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-28-at-17.49.55.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-28-at-17.49.55.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-28-at-17.49.55.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-28-at-17.49.55.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2724,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/between-grief-and-a-rugged-gorge-emotions-and-a-5-star-dinner-in-the-wild\/","url_meta":{"origin":2747,"position":5},"title":"Between grief and a rugged gorge: emotions and a 5-star dinner in the wild","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"5 April 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Day 13: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #throwback September 17, 2026 A lump in my throat at the cemetery After a good night in bed number 1, I get up on time and head out feeling fresh. 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