{"id":2687,"date":"2026-04-06T20:51:12","date_gmt":"2026-04-06T18:51:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/razor-sharp-thorns-and-the-orient-express-battling-the-serbian-jungle\/"},"modified":"2026-04-18T07:59:09","modified_gmt":"2026-04-18T05:59:09","slug":"razor-sharp-thorns-and-the-orient-express-battling-the-serbian-jungle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/razor-sharp-thorns-and-the-orient-express-battling-the-serbian-jungle\/","title":{"rendered":"Razor-sharp thorns and the Orient Express: battling the Serbian jungle"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Day 14: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia<\/h2>\n\n

#flashback September 18, 2025<\/p>\n\n

Sliding through the night<\/h2>\n\n

As it turned out, my camping spot wasn’t flat after all and I slept terribly. Might as well get up early then, there’s no point staying in bed. I quickly start enjoying the route because it’s truly gorgeous, but at the same time, I’m seriously worried. Some sections are overgrown with branches and almost impassable. Occasionally the path even disappears from sight, but thanks to the GPS files downloaded on my Komoot app<\/a>, I luckily stay on the right track. I’m crossing my fingers that I won’t have to turn back because of a dead end. That actually happened to me on the first day<\/a> of the Sultans Trail<\/a>, and there’s no alternative route here. <\/p>\n\n

First aid lesson among the thorns<\/h2>\n\n

As I plow through another piece of Serbian jungle, I cut myself open on a bush with enormous, long, razor-sharp thorns. Blood is gushing from my arm and… note to self: keep your first aid kit in an easily accessible place! Usually I do, but of course not right when I need it. I could kick myself. <\/p>\n\n

An Orthodox church and a vanished film set<\/h2>\n\n

Progress is slow due to the difficult paths, but I still have plenty of supplies and water, so it won’t become truly problematic. While walking through a small hamlet and making some sandwiches on a bench, a French woman who speaks fairly good English strikes up a conversation. She asks if I need water and points out a small church 100 m off the route that’s well worth a visit. You can hear the pride in her voice. Indeed, the Orthodox church is beautiful, and you’d never expect it in such a remote place. Apparently, another 300 m further there was supposed to be a beautiful viewpoint where scenes for the Orient Express were once filmed, but I never found it. <\/p>\n\n

A Michelin-worthy dinner without the rolling<\/h2>\n\n

Since there’s no way I’ll make it to a hostel today, I have no choice but to camp. Of course, I love camping and it’s no problem, but finding a flat spot is a major exception here too. This is going to be interesting. Luckily, I’ve now reached an agricultural area with grasslands and fields, which means better surfaces, but even there almost nothing is level. It’s enough to make you feel hopeless. <\/p>\n\n

Almost dark, but just in time, I finally find a spot. I make a quick soup and a salad with cucumber, tomato, and tuna. Hunger is the best sauce, but a route like today’s turns anything into a Michelin-worthy dinner. What’s more, I sleep wonderfully afterwards, without rolling around! <\/p>\n\n

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Day 14: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #flashback September 18, 2025 Sliding through the night As it turned out, my camping spot wasn’t flat after all and I slept terribly. Might as well… More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2688,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[7],"tags":[236,235,234,240],"class_list":["post-2687","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs-en","tag-long-distance-hike","tag-serbia","tag-sultanstrail","tag-wildkamperen"],"yoast_head":"\nRazor-sharp thorns and the Orient Express: battling the Serbian jungle - FOOTSTEPS OF FREEDOM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Razor-sharp thorns, bleeding arms, and a search for the Orient Express. 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En daar voel ik me thuis.","sameAs":["https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/marnix_footsteps_of_freedom\/"],"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/author\/cheersmarnix\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-06-at-20.29.47-1.jpeg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":2548,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/grens-oversteek-servie-bulgarije-diesel\/","url_meta":{"origin":2687,"position":0},"title":"Diesel on the highway: coffee stains and the crossing into Bulgaria","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"15 April 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"Day 18: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #flashback: September 22, 2025 Startup problems and an unwanted shower After two nights of fantastic sleep in my green room in Dimitrovgrad, I set off again in good spirits. At least\u2026 that\u2019s what I think. My body just doesn't want to\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2260,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/the-great-magic-trick-and-other-bumps-on-the-road-to-belgrade\/","url_meta":{"origin":2687,"position":1},"title":"The great magic trick and other bumps on the road to Belgrade","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"24 March 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"How is the journey from Budapest to Belgrade on the Sultans Trail? Discover the challenges with a hiking trailer, customs troubles, and first impressions of Serbia in this blog.","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Sultans Trail Hungary - Serbia Border","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/03\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-03-24-at-17.12.23.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2575,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/packed-like-sardines-at-the-wassenaar-campsite-and-how-my-tent-became-my-home-again\/","url_meta":{"origin":2687,"position":2},"title":"Packed like sardines at the Wassenaar campsite and how my tent became my home again","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"16 April 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"The beehive of Duinhorst After the grueling trek through the loose sand, I pitch my tent at Camping Duinhorst in Wassenaar. Everything is right here: neat fields, spotless sanitary buildings, friendly people at the reception. Really, that's not the problem. But this\u2026 this just isn't my way of being. I\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-16-at-20.10.02.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-16-at-20.10.02.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-16-at-20.10.02.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-16-at-20.10.02.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1589,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/disillusionment-at-the-end-of-the-pilgrimage-route\/","url_meta":{"origin":2687,"position":3},"title":"Disillusionment at the end of the pilgrimage route","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"9 June 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"#throwback - May 29, 2024 Soft rain falls during the night \u2014 such a lovely sound to fall asleep to. 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I\u2019m so glad I got vaccinated against the tick-borne virus that circulates here \u2014 different from the Lyme disease bacteria we have in the Netherlands,\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/Dag-29-plafond-kerk.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/Dag-29-plafond-kerk.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/Dag-29-plafond-kerk.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/Dag-29-plafond-kerk.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/Dag-29-plafond-kerk.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":1829,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/rainbow-flags-in-the-cathedral\/","url_meta":{"origin":2687,"position":4},"title":"Rainbow Flags in the Cathedral","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"13 June 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"#throwback - June 2nd, 2024 In the middle of the night, around 1:30 AM, I wake up with a jolt. I hear people walking past my tent. It\u2019s Saturday, and it turns out to be a group of teenagers who\u2019ve decided to hang out on the viewpoint above. Fortunately, there\u2019s\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/dag-33-pride-kerk.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/dag-33-pride-kerk.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/dag-33-pride-kerk.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/dag-33-pride-kerk.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/dag-33-pride-kerk.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":960,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/huskvarna-2\/","url_meta":{"origin":2687,"position":5},"title":"Huskvarna","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"23 May 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"#throwback - May 23, 2024 Made It on Time! I actually manage to hit the trail on time today! I want to arrive at the hostel early enough to do laundry\u2014that\u2019s the main reason I booked a room. Wild camping near a big city isn\u2019t easy either, so this is\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Blogs ENG"","block_context":{"text":"Blogs ENG","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/category\/blogs-en\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/dag-23-jongetje.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/dag-23-jongetje.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/dag-23-jongetje.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/dag-23-jongetje.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/dag-23-jongetje.jpeg?resize=1050%2C600&ssl=1 3x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/dag-23-jongetje.jpeg?resize=1400%2C800&ssl=1 4x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_likes_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2687","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2687"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2687\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2761,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2687\/revisions\/2761"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2688"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2687"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2687"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2687"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}