{"id":2548,"date":"2026-04-15T18:01:05","date_gmt":"2026-04-15T16:01:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/?p=2548"},"modified":"2026-04-15T20:46:27","modified_gmt":"2026-04-15T18:46:27","slug":"grens-oversteek-servie-bulgarije-diesel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/grens-oversteek-servie-bulgarije-diesel\/","title":{"rendered":"Diesel on the highway: coffee stains and the crossing into Bulgaria"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-vivid-green-cyan-color has-text-color has-link-color has-medium-font-size wp-elements-a05e23741956a6fb2777760d8b590b53\" style=\"text-transform:uppercase\">Day 18: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia<\/h2>\n\n<p>#flashback: September 22, 2025<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-vivid-green-cyan-color has-text-color has-link-color has-medium-font-size wp-elements-41961591dda79dd39d6d2a357c09c8f0\" style=\"text-transform:uppercase\">Startup problems and an unwanted shower<\/h2>\n\n<p>After two nights of fantastic sleep in my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.booking.com\/hotel\/rs\/amfora-dimitrovgrad.nl.html?aid=1587605&amp;label=eco156bi-10CAsowQFCE2FtZm9yYS1kaW1pdHJvdmdyYWRIHFgDaKkBiAEBmAEzuAEZyAEM2AED6AEB-AEBiAIBqAIBuAKAkfjOBsACAdICJDc4NjI0ZTU4LTJkNzAtNDE3My04NDY0LTJkNTdmYjZmNzM3NdgCAeACAQ&amp;sid=935bdce0002cc3e7cb6b3873bc44bc8d&amp;all_sr_blocks=109575904_200091540_1_2_0&amp;checkin=2026-04-14&amp;checkout=2026-04-15&amp;dest_id=-78451&amp;dest_type=city&amp;dist=0&amp;group_adults=1&amp;group_children=0&amp;hapos=1&amp;highlighted_blocks=109575904_200091540_1_2_0&amp;hpos=1&amp;matching_block_id=109575904_200091540_1_2_0&amp;no_rooms=1&amp;req_adults=1&amp;req_children=0&amp;room1=A&amp;sb_price_type=total&amp;sr_order=popularity&amp;sr_pri_blocks=109575904_200091540_1_2_0__2000&amp;srepoch=1776158859&amp;srpvid=42dc4280227b06d5&amp;type=total&amp;ucfs=1&amp;\">green room<\/a> in <a href=\"https:\/\/nl.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Dimitrovgrad_(Servi%C3%AB)\">Dimitrovgrad<\/a>, I set off again in good spirits. At least\u2026 that\u2019s what I think. My body just doesn&#8217;t want to cooperate and the hills feel like Mont Blanc. It&#8217;s amazing how the body works sometimes. Fortunately, it passes after a few hours and I\u2019m walking great again; the more miles I cover, the better it feels. I\u2019m a real diesel\u2014I always need time to get going\u2014but in the end, I still cover over 31 km.     <\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-vivid-green-cyan-color has-text-color has-link-color has-medium-font-size wp-elements-2c573a8e423d85897c2b902dfecf5cd7\" style=\"text-transform:uppercase\">Jogging across the highway<\/h2>\n\n<p>Pretty soon I reach the Serbian\/Bulgarian border. There is no special border crossing for pedestrians, so you have to walk along the highway past the booths where the cars stop. Before crossing the border into <a href=\"https:\/\/nl.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Bulgarije\">Bulgaria<\/a>, I grab a quick coffee, which I promptly spill all over myself. Besides the heat, I\u2019m annoyed because I had just washed everything and I plan to camp for the next few days. As best as I can, I rinse the coffee out of my pants at the restrooms.    <\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-vivid-green-cyan-color has-text-color has-link-color has-medium-font-size wp-elements-7f15d751b92796e5db75e9da502726e9\" style=\"text-transform:uppercase\">Hikers versus cyclists: the battle against the slope<\/h2>\n\n<p>After the border, the road goes up and up and yes, even steeper up, and for the first time in 18 days, I run into someone! Two cyclists on their way to Sofia. We chat for a bit and they continue with their bikes in hand while I push my cart. The path is too steep to cycle. I pass them with rapid strides. That\u2019s when you see who the experienced hiker is. It takes hours before they overtake me again.      <\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-vivid-green-cyan-color has-text-color has-link-color has-medium-font-size wp-elements-880621382ee40b17b4facb8a3503e4ba\" style=\"text-transform:uppercase\">Bulgarian order and brown autumn fields<\/h2>\n\n<p>The landscape is green and varied, and I\u2019m enjoying the views. It\u2019s another hot day, but the breeze is somewhat cool and there\u2019s regular shade, so it\u2019s manageable. When I arrive in the village of <a href=\"https:\/\/nl.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Dragoman_(Bulgarije)\">Dragoman<\/a>, I\u2019m slightly surprised. It looks tidy here, with straight sidewalks and far fewer dilapidated houses and trash on the streets.   <\/p>\n\n<p>After this, the landscape changes from green to brown. I walk through rolling fields where sunflowers, wheat, and corn stood not long ago and where the grass was still green. Still, it\u2019s beautiful; it perfectly signals the end of summer and the preparation for autumn and winter.  <\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-vivid-green-cyan-color has-text-color has-link-color has-medium-font-size wp-elements-3f8661eaf4e6248b9fdceca9deff907f\" style=\"text-transform:uppercase\">Hammering pegs into the hard ground<\/h2>\n\n<p>It\u2019s not easy, but eventually, I find a flat spot to camp. The pegs are hard to get into the ground, but with a stone, I manage bit by bit; my <a href=\"https:\/\/durstongear.com\/products\/x-mid-1-tent-ultralight-backpacking?srsltid=AfmBOop8yG3y4gBXEXVkoAHg8y4XXzq6z8RuwSd2HnmCUzWCCBtATueE\">tent<\/a> is solid as a rock. <\/p>\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2545\" src=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.28.15-1-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2545\" srcset=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.28.15-1-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.28.15-1-225x300.jpeg 225w, 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https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-2-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-2-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-2-940x1253.jpeg 940w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-2-300x400.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-2.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2544\" src=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2544\" srcset=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1-940x1253.jpeg 940w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1-300x400.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-1.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2542\" src=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3-768x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2542\" srcset=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3-225x300.jpeg 225w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3-940x1253.jpeg 940w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3-300x400.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30-3.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Day 18: The Sultans Trail from Belgrade to Sofia #flashback: September 22, 2025 Startup problems and an unwanted shower After two nights of fantastic sleep in my green room in Dimitrovgrad, I set off again&hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/grens-oversteek-servie-bulgarije-diesel\/\">More<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2549,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[7],"tags":[239,236,235,234,240],"class_list":["post-2548","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs-en","tag-bulgarije","tag-long-distance-hike","tag-serbia","tag-sultanstrail","tag-wildkamperen"],"yoast_head":"<!-- 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Na een loopbaan in de commerci\u00eble wereld, coaching en training, en jarenlange inzet in de vluchtelingenopvang, koos ik op mijn zestigste voor een radicale wending: ik gaf mezelf een sabbatical en trok de wereld in \u2013 te voet. Wat begon als een plan om 10.000 kilometer door Europa te wandelen, groeide uit tot iets veel groters: een nieuwe manier van leven. In negen maanden legde ik meer dan 5.500 kilometer af, met alleen mijn tent, schrijfboek, wandelkar (die ik liefdevol \u2018Wheelie\u2019 noem) en mijn barefoot schoenen. Al lopend ontdekte ik dat dit mijn pad is: een nomadisch bestaan, schrijvend onderweg. Ik geloof in het ritme van de voeten, in eenvoud, traagheid en aanwezigheid. Reizen zonder haast, leven met weinig, en onderweg de verhalen vangen die zich aandienen. Mijn missie? De schoonheid van vertraging, vrijheid en verbondenheid tastbaar maken in woorden. Ik b\u00e9n onderweg. En daar voel ik me thuis.","sameAs":["https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl","https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/marnix_footsteps_of_freedom\/"],"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/author\/cheersmarnix\/"}]}},"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/WhatsApp-Image-2026-04-15-at-15.27.30.jpeg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":2575,"url":"https:\/\/footstepsoffreedom.nl\/en\/packed-like-sardines-at-the-wassenaar-campsite-and-how-my-tent-became-my-home-again\/","url_meta":{"origin":2548,"position":0},"title":"Packed like sardines at the Wassenaar campsite and how my tent became my home again","author":"Marnix van der Lijn","date":"16 April 2026","format":false,"excerpt":"The beehive of Duinhorst After the grueling trek through the loose sand, I pitch my tent at Camping Duinhorst in Wassenaar. Everything is right here: neat fields, spotless sanitary buildings, friendly people at the reception. Really, that's not the problem. But this\u2026 this just isn't my way of being. 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I hear people walking past my tent. It\u2019s Saturday, and it turns out to be a group of teenagers who\u2019ve decided to hang out on the viewpoint above. 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I actually manage to hit the trail on time today! I want to arrive at the hostel early enough to do laundry\u2014that\u2019s the main reason I booked a room. 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